A basement waterproofing system replacement is something none of us want to do. If your system fails to stop your basement or crawlspace from flooding, what choice do you have?
Some system installations can cost a lot of money, depending on linear footage and system features. Imagine paying for a system twice. Nothing can be worse than paying for a faulty basement waterproofing system and years later having to remove it and replace it with an efficient method.
We have been in the business for more than two decades, and almost every other week we have to perform a tear out. That means removing an entire perimeter waterproofing system installed by another company. We learn a lot on every system replacement we do.
There are several systems (gutter and box-like designs) out there that are not well-designed. They are radical redesigns that are engineered to increase profit margins and give the perception of a quick installation with maximum water management capabilities. Nothing can be further from the truth.
After routinely ripping out many of these systems over the years, we can honestly tell you where they fail. The only positive thing we can say is that they look pretty before going under your floor, but who cares if you don’t see it after troweling cement over it.
9 DRAINAGE FLAWS FOUND IN GUTTER & BOX-LIKE DESIGNS
- WITHIN FLOOR DEPTH: Managing water in the depth of your floor is a terrible idea. Your cement floor is porous and absorbs water. Water escapes in the form of humidity. The humidity makes your basement feel damp.
- UPSELLING: They have to upsell to solve the humidity problem in the form of special floor tile and an industrial dehumidifier.
- NO PITCH: We never found one of these systems pitched towards the sump pump basket. They are installed leveled. Water will enter and sit inside until your entire floor is soaking in water from beneath and filling the system drainage. The groundwater will creep to the sump basket but not until your entire floor is saturated.
- REQUIRED MAINTENANCE: The groundwater that sits in the drainage pipes can eventually clog with iron ochre because of “no pitch.” That’s why several of these floor-depth designs have “clean-out” ports. You lift the lid and flush with a power washer. Oh yes, there is an annual fee to have that done as routine maintenance. It is more like flushing money down the toilet.
- NOT CUSTOMIZABLE: A cookie-cutter design means “one size fits all.” We can tell you that “one size fits all” is an impossibility in basement waterproofing. The most popular foundations are poured-concrete and block foundations, then the least popular are stone and monopour. We can only see monopour foundations benefiting to some degree from these floor-depth drainage systems.
- BAD DESIGN: We know drainage systems need a way to move water to the sump basket. The floor-depth drainage canal has a lip before water can enter the system. This lip assures that water can sit inside of it and eventually move to the sump basket. We ran tests and found that water bypasses the system by seeping water underneath it, over the foundation footer and beneath the floor. The ground beneath your slab floor must fill with water before the drainage takes it away.
- NON-CODE COMPLIANT: These flawed systems also give back approximately one-inch of your slab floor in the form of mixed cement. Your floor was initially 3.5 to 6 inches thick. ICC states that you must put back the thickness of your slab floor to maintain the stability of your foundation. Engineers came up with this code for a reason which brings us to the next point.
- INVISIBLE EROSION: Now that your floor is removed from the footer and away from the walls, a new problem begins, or an old problem remains. Groundwater will fill up underneath your floor and will have to travel laterally to get to the drainage. Groundwater must find a way out. It will displace the backfilled soil beneath your floor and start the process of floor cracking.
- WEAKENING FOUNDATION: Removing the full thickness of your slab floor from on top of your footing and away from your walls weakens the overall structural integrity of your home. Walls will crack and doors and windows will jam throughout the house. Eventually, it could lead to a foundation shift which will require foundation pinning.
One thing is for sure, floor-depth drainage (gutter and box-like designs) are overall failures in creating a dry basement and sacrifice the overall stability of your home. Not only its a feeble attempt at removing water from your basement floor but worst of all, your foundation is completely compromised.
ASK YOUR SELF THESE QUESTIONS
Is it worth getting a waterproofing system that is less intrusive and takes less time to install, or would you instead get it done using a reliable method approved by the army corps of engineers?
Why not manage groundwater 10 or 12 inches below your slab floor where it will not touch your floor, promote erosion and form humidity?
How about getting a system that is customizable to any type of foundation?
What about a waterproofing system that requires zero maintenance, keeps slab floors bone dry, and maintains the integrity of your home by using a combination of engineer tabs and proprietary crystalline cement?
Why not a unique cement mixture that returns the full thickness of your slab floor and makes it stronger than ever before?
American Dry Basement Systems offers this basement waterproofing system and more. Its called the SuperDry System, and the best part is that it usually costs as much as the gutter or box-like systems. You get ten times the system around the same price.
In closing, avoid getting your basement waterproofing system replacement through research and compare. You will make the right choice after you discover the truth about basement waterproofing systems.